This page is created by Serge with the help from members of Tremolino email list and is intended as a dedicated info source for the venerable Dick Newick’s design, Tremolino, a 23 foot trimaran for the masses.
I have the mold for the original Tremolino taken from one brought to Australia in the early 80's. Only two were ever made as the original builder did not push the design. I used to race against one and fell in love with the boat and years later purchased the mold. After much consultation with John Olin and Dick Newick I decided to stick to the original concept which John though worked extremely well and I agreed. If you want more accommodation - buy another design. If you want folding akas - buy another design. The Hobie 16 and the Laser are not everyone's answer but are still selling well here in Australia.
I decided to go the same way and keep the connection with Hobie and to date the response has been just great. My Tremolino is perfect for the river and lake sailing with shallow water and excellent winds. Sure, I might not go to windward in a blow quite as quick but off the wind I am away. I've beaten all the local opposition even a Farrier 24 on one occasion and I think the increase in speed is marginal if sailed aggressively and well. For cruising the design is a perfect off the beach boat.
At some point David had the tiller steering replaced by remote control traveller steering.
David writes: "The mainsheet traveller and tiller car have been mounted on one aluminium tube which is attached to the rear aka tie-down bracket. The mainsheet traveller glides as if on ice and is easily played even from the trampoline. A great advantage in heavy conditions. The rudder is from a Farrier 24 with aluminium rudder case. Controls are not shown but lead back to the cockpit."
My design uses a standard Hobie 18 rig with a Hobie Tiger spinnaker, my rudder is from a Farrier 24 and my trampolines are standard trampoline nets wrapped around the compression bar - very cheap but far better that purpose made ones I have seen. I made my own lightweight fibreglass seats which weigh only 8 kgs more than fabric seats and they are so comfortable creating a great cockpit. I eliminated the quadrant steering as it was not sensitive especially at the speeds I do and a liability in tight racing situations which I am often in.
Details of the boat's forward crossbeam, showing the H16 mast foot casting that was filled professionally with aluminum and then the H18 mast step ball assembly was screwed into the tapped modified H16 mast foot casting.
David writes:
The Hobie 18 base uses a half plastic ball on a plastic washer with a bolt
through the middle. The bolt goes into the threaded dolphin striker in a
Hobie 18 set up. My one simply bolts into the tapped aluminium base. This
has worked well but I am advised that I should drill out the bolt hole and
replace with a stainless steel rod tapped out to take the bolt holding the
plastic ball to ensure no shear problem. The Hobie 18 base is flatter than the Hobie 16 so can't be used over the aka section.
I used standard Hobie 18 rigging through out and didn't even change the shroud length. All fits perfectly. I could take the mast off and install on a Hobie 18.
I had a three point boom system for the main but use the Hobie 16 mainsheet block system fitted to the forward connector.
I use a Standard Hobie 18 jib sheeted back to the gunwale of the main hull. Looks a little close but works extremely well. I use spectra strop to reduce the length of the jib sheets. Mast rotation is standard Hobie 18 and works well.
David's retractable bowsprit setup:
David's F24 rudder and custom bracket:
David writes that the design which works extremely well and has been test often at speed when the rudder hits bottom. I have a pipe rubber joiner to act as a spring to relieve pressure. The rudder is from a Farrier 24 which are made here in Australia. Note the tiller is set quite high and this is because I originally had a quadrant for steering on top which did not give adequate feel. This has now been removed. I intend to lower the back curve of the rudder box and reduce the height of the tiller connection.